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Nice article from Santa Barbara News Press:
Happy Canyon: The next big thing
Dennis Schaefer
March 26, 2009 7:14 AM
In the last couple of years, the national wine media and wine critics have gone nuts over the wines coming out of Santa Rita Hills. Pinot noir and chardonnay from that area, west of Buellton toward Lompoc, have been repeatedly praised in just about any wine magazine, newsletter or blog you happen to run across. Sure, "Sideways" and its surprisingly sustained effect help propel the region into greater public consciousness, though its stock was already on the rise, with the emphasis on producing quality wines.
Now, even though the national wine scribes haven't really caught on to it yet, Happy Canyon is on the verge of becoming the next big thing. Just like Santa Rita Hills is the western most area of the Santa Ynez Valley, Happy Canyon is at the other extreme, on the eastern most edge. Think about where Brander and Bridlewood wineries are, east of Highway 154, then go even farther east. Happy Canyon is the warmest growing area, distant as it is from the cooling ocean breeze and fog, in Santa Barbara County.
Because Happy Canyon sees warmer temperatures, it is particularly well suited to Bordeaux varietals, like cabernet sauvignon and merlot. Dierberg has made a major vineyard investment in the area, as well as Vogelzang and McGinley (formerly Westerly). A number of other wineries, like Ojai, Fiddlehead and Rusack, also buy grapes from this area.
Today I want to concentrate on two vineyard-based wineries in Happy Canyon that are united by a common thread: At both Cimarone Estate Wines and Happy Canyon Vineyard (aka Barrack Wines), Doug Margerum is the director of winemaking. Mr. Margerum is, of course, the former proprietor of the Wine Cask and now heads up his own label, Margerum Wine Company.
First up, Cimarone Estate Wines are entirely sourced from their own Three Creek Vineyard in Happy Canyon. Owners Roger and Priscilla Higgins, refugees from Silicon Valley,
bought the 103-acre ranch in 2000 and commenced planting the vineyard in 2001; it now encompasses 27 acres of organically certified and farmed vines, including cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, malbec, syrah, sangiovese and sauvignon blanc. A former horse barn and tack room was converted into a modern winery facility.
• Cimarone Sangiovese, Gran Premio 2006 ($40): Gran Premio is what Italians call Formula 1 motor racing, the pinnacle of motor sports in Europe. The Higginses label this 100 percent sangiovese "Gran Premio," as this is the very best pick from their vineyard. It's very meaty with dark fruit on the nose, then dried cherry and plum on the palate, as well as aged saddle leather. A classic expression of Old World sangiovese that's lean and muscular with dried cherry at the center, without the adulteration of other distracting grapes in the mix. Distinctive and well-structured, this wine is accessible now but could age for another five years. It finishes like classic sangiovese, extremely dry, with an affinity for veal marsala or Mama's classic long-simmered tomato-based meat sauce (sugo) over fresh pasta.
• Cimarone Le Clos Secret 2006 ($60): This is the best Bordeaux blend from the property, including (in descending order) cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot and malbec. The resulting wine is fruit-filled, well-structured and darkly inky but well-balanced. The cab franc really shines through with beautiful fruit and the other varietals follow suit. A great Bordeaux-style blend that has a rarefied elegance but an undeniable concentration too. If I served this to you blind, you would never guess this beauty was from Santa Barbara County; it's that other-worldly.
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